"Kitchen Express" by Mark Bittman

 

Had the circumstances been the same for my introduction to Mark Bittman’s latest volume, “Kitchen Express,” I can assure you of the result -- a purchase.   

 

Grabbing the book now and taking it through my requisite flipping exercise, I’ve happened upon Bittman’s instructions on making a savory open-faced Anchovy Egg Sandwich, a hearty pot of Braised Cabbage with Spanish Chorizo and Beans, and a tempting Apricot Cream Upside-Down Pie.  Perusing another three random pages, I hit upon Seared Pork Paillards with Prunes and Olives, Broiled Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts, and Avocado, Citrus and Radicchio Salad.  Needless to say, I would be delighted to try each and every one of these flavorful-sounding dishes.   

 

Heightening their appealing, each “Kitchen Express” recipe is based on using quality ingredients, while devoting a minimum of time -- in this case 20 minutes or so -- in the actual cooking process.  

 

Sounds like a tasty formula for the ultimate go-to cookbook, right?  Well, that depends… 

 

It depends on whether or not you are a veteran home cook with enough creativity and confidence to work with Bittman’s free-form “recipes.”  Precise guidance doesn’t seem to be Bittman’s strong suit.  For example, there is only a smattering of counsel when it comes to amounts and measures, with Bittman often suggesting a “few teaspoons” of this or “some” of that or simply a “handful” of something else  Heck, even baseline information on the number served by each dish is relegated to a small mention in the “How To Use This Book” section. (By the way, each recipe “serves 3 - 4.”) 

 

Personally, it was all well and good when I took to my kitchen to make Bittman’s BLT Salad.  His paragraph about the dish was reminiscent of a friend sharing a beloved family dish for which she never had a written recipe card.  Besides, I’m fond of recipe riffing.   

 

But sometimes when we leaf through a cookbook, we aren’t looking for a friend.  Instead, we may be looking for an expert chef and teacher who can provide us with exacting step-by-step direction.  And, moreover, how many people will really read any cookbook’s “How To Use This Book” section before diving straight into the recipes? 

 

Still, in this case, it may be worth taking the time and energy to get a handle on the “Kitchen Express” approach.  The food is accessible and quick to prep, and more importantly, Bittman’s palate and seasonal cookery combinations make for inspired deliciousness.